Mining Towns – Part II

February 24th, 2010

 

Shallow trenches and rubble form the remains of the Village of the Scorpions.

  The continuing story I want to convey here is not just the history of that “paint” mine in particular, however.

  There is a deeper side to it. – the real theme is how wrong, or at best, simply misunderstood, our perception of the past is.

  The narrow, “locked in” view of “how it was” is very often incomplete when examining the record of human history.

  Bringing that history to life is what is necessary. Dusty, old ruins merely tell part of the tale. The relationship between all those sets of ruins is something else – indeed, it is the very fabric of that old society, and, by virtue of human descent, of us.

  In a previous GeoStory ™ (“The Turquoise Traders”), I wrote about the “Village of the Scorpions”, a place where ancients had mined and crafted turquoise for a period of some 800 years. It sits along a onetime trade route that extended from a Hohokam city we now call Snaketown (near the present-day Gila River bridge, on I-10, southeast of Phoenix) into western and central Mexico. The village was then, and is now, clearly “in the middle of nowhere”.

  But it was next to a place where copper minerals occurred, and those inhabiting the region around 1700 years ago had already recognized those minerals by their brilliant blue and green colors. One type of pretty rock found there was turquoise, the most desirable of the ornamental copper minerals.

  When I wrote that piece, I had not yet visited the actual village site. Few people had ever even heard about it, and references to its precise location were almost nonexistent.

  It took two trips into the blazing desert, a lot of map interpretation, various wanderings around through the scrubby landscape, numerous vicious little bites from gnats and other insects, what seemed like hundreds of “stickers” in my legs, and the braving of encounters with both the US Border Patrol (friendly), and people-smuggling “coyotes” (who roared by in a pickup truck packed with humans, not really in a mood to talk), but I finally found it.

  I think by then, my good friend, who had accompanied me on both of these desert excursions, was probably wondering about me and my obsession with the place. But for me, having only read about it was not enough. I had to actually see the spot, feel the desert, and experience the place. I had to bring it to life.

  The Village of the Scorpions (its present-day Indian name) is now a series of shallow ditches and low piles of dirt and rock, sitting on a gentle ridge offering sweeping, lonely views to the north and south.

  Where miners and artisans, along with their families, had once lived and died over a period of eight centuries, now lay only desolation and the quick work of some archaeological crews in the last decades. The remains of a pit house could be seen in one spot, a few stone piles in others, and there were a few pieces of blue turquoise scattered about.

 Prehistoric traders traveled through this valley towards Snaketown.

  The archaeologists had done their job well. And it’s a good thing, too, for without their detailed work and documentation, the place would have been obliterated by present-day mining activity, and we would have never known the detail of what took place there, and just how that little village had fit into a far-ranging trade network.

  As I stood there in the heat of the day for what seemed like a long time, I imagined I could barely make out a small trading caravan in the distance, headed for whatever-they-called-Snaketown then, bearing a load of bright blue stones and carvings.

  I suggested to my friend (who had been with me at the “pigment” mine also) that we were probably among a few living humans – maybe we were the only two – that had actually been to both of these two old contemporary mining villages of the prehistoric Southwest.

  I noted that we had quite possibly retraced the footsteps, so to speak, over a few trips, of a couple of ancient Hohokam traders – us finding one old mine by accident, the other after a lot of research and driving. We were, in a way, reliving their adventures, and at the same time, creating some of our own.

  The point? You can’t relate to the experiences of our predecessors simply by reading about them. You should go there, stand in that place, imagine and feel what those that lived, worked, and died there felt.

  Bring it to life for yourself. You don’t have to venture into the wilds to do it. There are places all around, like Casa Grande National Monument, or Pueblo Grande here in Phoenix, or the Deer Valley Rock Art Center, close to I-17, a few miles from the Loop 101.

  Just go there, and imagine.

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Mining Towns – Part I

January 21st, 2010

Crumbling ancient walls are all that is left of this mining town.

  Mining has got to be one of humankind’s oldest professions. In fact, it is probably only just behind food-gathering, and maybe, oh well, you know, that other one, too.

  For tens of thousands of years, people have dug up rocks for whatever uses they could think of – the making spear-points or arrowheads, to trade as bits of currency, or for some kind of ornamentation. This is not to mention the use of big chunks of rock for creating buildings, bridges, or pyramids, even.

  Much of what the ancients valued is very different from what we value in today’s world. They had uses for things that we don’t even think about these days, and vice versa. Obsidian, a volcanic glass, was once highly sought-after, and traded far and wide, because it was the perfect stone from which to shape points and blades. How about good old salt? Yes, salt is a mineral, and it was once an expensive commodity, used as a form of payment.

  People once catapulted balls of acrid, burning sulfur at each other, well before they started using it in gunpowder. And back then they thought of smelly, oily, petroleum tar as a curiosity – something that trapped certain animals in the pits where it occurred – and wondered why on Earth anyone would ever need very much of that stuff.

  Not that any of these musings had been on my mind as I headed into the backcountry for a little archaeological adventure. I had been wanting to check out some more ancient cliff dwellings – remnants of what we now call the Salado Culture. What that trip turned into was a reminder that you never know what to expect out there. There is always some stone to be up-turned, so to speak.

  It began as a gray, windy, rainy day, though springtime, and as I started out I wondered whether the hike would be a good one. I was headed into the gentle, lower reaches of a canyon in the craggy Sierra Ancha. This area is home to some of the most remote and undisturbed prehistoric ruins in the Southwest.

  The mountains sort of blend northward into the Mogollon Rim, so they don’t stand out as a separate island of peaks like so many other ranges in this part of the world. That belies how rugged the wilderness really is there, however. Sheer cliffs of hard, massive reddish and purplish Precambrian quartzites rise abruptly out of the creek beds, presenting formidable walls to any easy passage, and one has but a limited number of routes by which to penetrate the cliff-dwellers’ domain.

  Add to that numerous thickets of chollas, and tall stands of plump, green Saguaro cacti, and you have a scene of bewildering beauty. Within a few hours, the land started to rise higher and higher above me, and after crossing a small divide, I started to feel almost surrounded by the towering ledges.

  Groves of trees closed in too, along with prickly brush and tall grass, and my eyes searched everywhere I was planning on putting down a footstep, lest I put it right on top of an idle rattlesnake. The fresh moisture in the desert air added both a sense of thickness and security.

  I would have missed the dwellings, had it not been for the tiniest of a crumbly, worn trail leading up through a leafy thicket, right up to the base of some red overhangs. Then appeared the stone walls, the dry, daubed-on mud, and the small doorways of the ruin.

  I had read of this place just before my journey, so I thought I knew what to expect. And it was just like how the author described it.

  Except for one thing: he missed the reason for the place being where it was.

Bands of red and yellow iron oxides.

  The stone forming the back walls of the musty, old rooms was a rich rusty color, layered with alternating bands of golden ochre, making for a half-completed rainbow look.

  The rock had been scoured and scooped out by perhaps generations of residents, and the dirt all around was red and yellow, too, and soft and powdery. And I knew right at that moment that this was no ordinary cliff village.

  The previously-visiting writer had seemingly missed its significance completely: that this was a mine. The rooms were where the miners lived and worked.

  What they mined was the soft, brightly-colored rock from behind, and from this spot, those powdered pigments were probably exported to faraway villages and cities of the time.

A rainbow of color inside the mine.

 

  I was fortunate. Had I not been a geologist, and one with some archaeological training, I don’t think the significance of the place would have even dawned on me. I thought of all that red and buff ancient pottery I’ve seen in museums, the vermilion, angular markings, and the paint once covering the “big house” at Casa Grande National Monument, and I thought to myself, “I’ll bet I know right where that coloring came from!”

  The place had come to life for me.

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  PLEASE STAY TUNED for Part II of this story, next month.

 

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Star Chart

December 8th, 2009

Chimney Rocks in Colorado.

  Rocks are my passion. Anyone who looks at my website will realize that.

  But they will also see that my world of rocks spans everything from little ones, like gemstones, to really big ones, like the moon and planets in the sky above. Rock types that cover that whole spectrum are right up my alley.

  And the aspects of rocks that intrigue me the most are not their chemical characteristics, or their economic values, but their relationships with us. It is the “bridge”, so to speak, between rocks and other forms of life, that continuously presents new terrain to explore, and new material for thought.

  This may sound a little strange at first, but when you start to realize how much of your everyday life somehow involves rocks, those seemingly inanimate, cold, hard substances that form our world become a lot more meaningful.

  I was driving south through the Four Corners area a month or so ago, in that part of Colorado where the high peaks of the Rockies just start to open up down into and out onto the Colorado Plateau.

  Golden aspens and land that is more vertical than horizontal gives way there to red rocks and wide open spaces, punctuated by spires and pinnacles of stone, each one with an individual personality. It is where the rivers cease their tumbling and roaring, where they begin to broaden and slow, and where cattle now come to their banks for liquid refreshment. Even the smell in the air changes from cold, mountain, and evergreen, to warm, organic, grasses and desert.

  It is also where you become aware that these are more habitable lands. And they have been that way for quite some time. When you start looking around, you realize, too, that there are ruins everywhere – ancient ruins of homes and structures and temples that mystify us, for you have entered a part of the world where very little is known about the former occupants and why they came and went.

  One such set of ruins towered above me along that road: Chimney Rock. I had read about it and studied what is known about it before I had started out on that venture, of course. But, as I’ve found is usual with such locales, its countenance and its setting was again more striking than I had expected. And here, too, not only were the ruins of the prehistoric village amazing, their placement was really integral with the rocks. They were put here because of the rocks, and not just the scenic view of them, either.

  Native Americans considered the land inseparable from culture. Temples and sacred spots were not sited in places of convenience, but in places with spiritual connection to the Earth. It’s as if such places “grew out of the Earth”.

  Chimney Rock Pueblo is one such site if I ever saw one. Alongside the rushing Rio Piedra (“stone river”), it sits along a high, steep, constricted ridge of gray and tan Cretaceous-age sandstone, and there is not much room for anything else. To its east are two great pinnacles of rock, looking like two big smokestacks might have looked jutting up from one of those old, long, Titanic-era steamships, when viewed from the side. No smoke emanating, here, however.

  And when seen from the distance below, the village is unnoticeable. It’s only when you get up to it, and walk among its crumbling stone walls and kivas, does the perspective shift. The two towers then look nearly side-by-side, and because there is a gap in the ridge between them and the pueblo, they seem to “float” above the ruins.

Chimney Rock Pueblo – kivas and ruins.

  “Why here?” you might ask yourself. “Why, when all the water is a thousand feet below, would they choose to live here?” Many people and scholars have asked that very same question. There are countless archaeological remains all over the Southwest that puzzle academicians equally. Some such locations appear to be defensive. Some appear to be sited where they were for communications purposes. Some were maybe even situated for upland farming.

  But here, the latest thinking is that besides possibly having elements of the above-mentioned reasons, Chimney Rock Pueblo (or whatever they called it) was, and still is, for that matter, a monumental celestial observatory. It was a means to chart movements of heavenly bodies within the sky, and hence determine the pulse of the seasons.

  Given that, its rulers and inhabitants would have had some pretty valuable information, indeed. With apparently no paper at the time with which to do some figuring, and no timekeeping machines, they nevertheless had developed a system by which they could predict cycles of time – a chart within and of the rocks, so to speak, and their understanding of the skies was far ahead of what most people on the street today could tell you.

  As I write this, we are approaching the Winter Solstice. We also have a Summer Solstice every year, and it usually makes the news or weather report, too. Astronomical terms such as solstice, equinox, and standstill get thrown around a lot. But how many of you actually know what they mean?

  We have so little exposure to the cycles of nature in today’s world that people have lost an appreciation of what is in the sky above. Most of us live in large cities now, and those that even bother to look up at night usually see only a few stars. I get the feeling that many think of them as little lights on a domed ceiling high above – like the sparkles overhead in some kind of giant, worldly discotheque.

  While he was attending one of my stargazing sessions one time, I actually had a surgeon (after I had made a comment about where some star was in the sky at that moment, as if we could see it below the horizon) ask me, in all seriousness, “You mean that the stars go all the way around the world?”

  After all of the science, chemistry, and physics classes, and rigors of medical school that he must have gone through, he had apparently not grasped until that moment, that Earth is indeed a planet in space, and the stars lie in every direction. Only the blue haze of the daytime sky prevents us from seeing them all of the time.

  The ancient peoples of the world, especially their priests and shamans, knew all about the placement of the stars. They lived their lives with a constant knowledge of the heavens, and the solstices, equinoxes, and standstills ruled their calendars.

  Chimney Rock Pueblo is a place (and there are probably many in the Southwest) that was almost certainly sited because of astronomical events. The twin rock pinnacles form an ideal, gigantic “notch”, through which at various times, the risings of the sun and the moon could be observed from the pueblo.

Chimney Rocks from the valley. You would never know a village was up there.

  Like at its man-made, older counterpart, Stonehenge (in England), only on certain days of the year would such events happen. By careful observation over many years, the Puebloans noted that such risings could be used to predict when the seasons would change, when to plant crops, and when to start getting ready for winter.

  As for the terms I mentioned above, following are some brief explanations (and my discussion here pertains only to the Northern Hemisphere). First of all, the beginning of Winter has nothing to do with the fact that it starts to get cold out, per se.

  Because the Earth is tilted on its axis of rotation, relative to its plane of orbit around the Sun, it sometimes is fully tilted away from the Sun, and sometimes fully tilted towards it. When it is tilted fully away, the Sun appears as far south as it can in the sky, and this occurs actually at a precise moment, time-wise.

  Then Earth starts to rock back the other way. That furthest south position can most easily be noted by observing where the Sun rises on the horizon from day to day. If you watched every morning, you would see that on one particular day of the year, it would stop rising farther south than on the previous day, and that on the day following that, it would start rising to the north again.

  That position, and its corresponding time, would be called a standstill, as the Sun’s march would appear to “stand still” for a day, on the horizon, before reversing its direction. In Latin, “solstice” means “stand still”. “Winter” is the name we give to the one-fourth of the year following that astronomical moment. The beginning of “Summer” has a similar, but reversed instant, when the Sun is farthest north.

  The equinoxes are the positions exactly in between the solstice positions (as there are only two solstice positions during the year, there are also only two equinox positions). They have the names Vernal and Autumnal, and mark the beginnings of Spring and Fall, respectively. On those days, the Sun rises directly in the East, and sets directly in the West, and day and night are of equal length (hence “equinox”). The points where the Sun rises and sets on those days are also points on the horizon, likewise marked and noted by megaliths and rocks of the ancients.

  The term “standstill”, when used as such, apart from my explanations here, usually applies to the movements (risings and settings) of the Moon, which goes through similar rhythms.

  Observing celestial events from day to day, and night to night, makes the heavens come alive. For everything is moving, and some of the patterns repeat – predictably so. Watch, and you can see it too. Appreciating the sky will make you appreciate the Earth and the rocks beneath your feet. It’s almost as if the path of the stars ultimately leads one home.

  The Winter Solstice, or December Solstice (to be fair and PC to those in the Southern Hemisphere), occurs on or about December 21, every year. From that moment on, Summer is on its way.

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Hard Place

November 5th, 2009

Several stories tall, these ancient ruins cling to vertical quartzite cliffs, in hope of something.

  You’ve all heard it before. You know, the line about how tough things are, the line about an impossible situation, about being “between a rock and a hard place”.

  It was a warm spring day, and I had just about had it with the climb up a steep, brushy, wooded slope, if you want to call it that. It was more like a tangled obstacle course, except that it seemed nearly vertical, and the loose soil beneath my feet made getting up through it even more frustrating, as it was two steps forward, slide back one.

  Annoying little bugs swarmed around my face and ears, but they kept me company and gave me something to yell at. They were the only creatures, I’m sure, that would have thought my sweat- soaked shirt and hat smelled nice. I was beginning to wonder if it was worth it, if all this work made any sense. It would be easier to turn around, and go back to the car, now miles down the deep canyon. My heart was pounding. I was trying to find some ruins.

  I was well into the rugged Sierra Ancha (in Spanish, “wide mountains”), about 75 miles northeast of Phoenix. This remote range is one of the least explored archaeological areas in Arizona, and it is not hard to understand why. Deeply-incised canyons cut through massive layers of rock, and these in turn are coated with all kinds of thick vegetation – tall pine woods at the summit, right on down to the cactus-strewn canyon floors.

  Rattlesnakes abound, and who knows what other dangers, too – maybe the emotional ghosts of those who lived here and built my goal about 700 years ago. Whatever caused people to live in such a place must have been an intensely emotional thing, and I imagine that that emotion was fear.

  And then I saw them. Right above me was one of the most spectacular sets of cliff-dwellings I had ever seen, there literally clinging to the massive rock cliffs above. They looked like they had just grown there, right out of the stone. My mind flashed on the connection between life and rocks, and here was another example. Only here it was humans that grew this place in the rocks, and I knew there were more such spots around that area, too. The rocks offered protection.

  The Sierra Ancha are so rough and craggy because most of the rock there is very hard and tough, and consequently very resistant to erosion. In the area of these Anchan Culture cliff-dwellings, quartzite and limestone are the order of the day.

Massive quartzite ramparts in the Sierra Ancha of Arizona.

  Quartzite is a metamorphic rock, meaning that the original stone has been changed by heat and pressure, in this case altering an old sandstone formation (left-over beach sands, possibly) into a much more durable rock unit.

  Limestone is a rock, also very unyielding, precipitated out of oceanic waters, and forms vertical cliffs in a lot of places where it occurs.

  Both of these rocks point to a time when this part of what we now call Arizona lay along the shores of ancient seas lying to the west and south. It was not North America then, and what we now see as our landscape would then have been around a billion years into the future.

  These rocks are collectively known to geologists as the Apache Group. Higher up in their section, you can also see layers of dark basalt, a volcanic rock that erupted way back then in various places, as the old setting went through some convulsive times.

  Equivalent rock formations are found in and below the bottom of the Grand Canyon, and there they are approximately 5000 feet lower in elevation than they are here, there near the Colorado River itself. Therefore, the rocks above that point, most all of those colorful layers now seen in the walls of the Grand Canyon, were once on top of the Sierra Ancha as well.

  Because of massive uplift of the region, the younger rocks are now gone, and the innards are exposed.

  You can see these same rocks when you wind your way up State Route 288 (also known as the Young Road) from the valley floor, near the Salt River and Roosevelt Lake, to the upper reaches of the Sierra Ancha, near Aztec Peak, on the way to the small town of Young. In this stretch, you are going up through time.

The Sierra Ancha, along the left skyline, appear deceptively gentle in this view of them from the Mazatzal Mountains. Roosevelt Lake is in the foreground.

  My distress at the sweaty work-out turned to delight; my desperation turned to awe. Tough places, tough rocks, I mused. The Apache Group is still there because it is so hard to get at, and in turn, the dwellings of the ancients remain tucked within its depths, mostly untouched, for the same reason.

  That the inhabitants of these ruins chose to live, and die, between the difficulties of the nearly impassible terrain below and the sheer walls of stone, demonstrates the incredibly fine line of life to which they clung, and the tenacity of nature itself.

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